But through the eyes of four restaurants as they experienced the past two years - a beloved 24-hour diner, an iconic banquet hall, a young neighborhood restaurant group, and a power-lunch titan with a galaxy of stars from the New York Times and Michelin - we might at least have some perspective on it.Īpril 7 An Choi reopens to sell takeout cocktails, which are allowed by the State Liquor Authority for the first time. There’s still no official count of the number of restaurants that closed, and there likely never will be. The pandemic is ongoing another variant looms. We’re a long way from fully comprehending this moment. Some 20 months later, the industry has largely recovered, but scars remain, and they run deep: Local institutions are gone, forever altering the texture of the city’s neighborhoods droves of workers have left the industry behind and many surviving restaurants remain buried under a mountain of debt. The connective tissue of social life, a medium for culture, and an economic engine that provided more than 300,000 jobs - predominantly to immigrants and people of color - New York’s restaurants and the people behind them experienced the epitome of nearly every form of havoc wrought by the pandemic. No aspect of life in America’s largest city was left untouched in its early days, but perhaps none was as drastically or visibly altered as its restaurant industry. It was almost two years ago that New York City became the epicenter of the coronavirus pandemic.
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